The 500 year old Ice Maiden

We were led into the final dark room, and we felt the ghost of her before our eyes found her. The air in her glass chamber was chilled to -20C in order to preserve the bundle that crouched before us. Juanita, the young Incan girl who was sacrificed to appease the Gods, sat in a…

Show me the way to Cristo Blanco!

Our ankles twist off the cobbles as the snarling dog pack heads our way. A brown stray with clumps of fur dangling from his hind leg edges towards us, and the steep road falls away to the valley behind. From above, our picture is framed with a backdrop of grey granite hemmed with ashen grass,…

Living on the Lake

Men in textile cone hats waved at us as we rocked past in our boat, their tanned round faces wrinkling in delight. The still water cast gentle ripples behind the reed boats, which had great curling necks that became grotesque laughing puma heads with white painted teeth. Passengers sat in the helms or the bellies…

Top Tips: Surfing down sand dunes

Huacachina in Peru is a surreal place. Steep golden sand dunes tower over the green lagoon where wading birds parade in the water against blood orange sunsets. Hotels cluster around the water. At sunrise, guests trek 250ft to the top of the slopes, and enjoy the view of the desert for miles around. Growling dune…

The Haggler’s Handbook

Good haggling is an art that takes time to master. The best deals are struck when you build a relationship with the trader and find a mutual price that suits you both, usually within minutes. Naming your price may seem daunting if you are used to paying set costs, but once you start sparring amounts…

The Quest for Seven Waterfalls

‘Siete Tinajas,’ hissed the locals of Quillabamba in their soft lisps as we crossed the square, Seven Waterfalls. My friends and I made our way into the cool innards of the helado parlour, which boasted every colour and every tropical fruit flavour, including the perfume-infused lucuma that is produced locally. Two glistening balls of ice…